Wines with swagger: The Michael Hill-Smith StoryIn this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, host Anna Webster sits down with Michael Hill-Smith AM MW, one of the most influential figures in Australian wine. As Australia’s first Master of Wine and co-founder of Shaw + Smith, Tolpuddle Vineyard and MMAD, Michael shares stories from his childhood at Yalumba, his early connection to food and wine, and the pivotal moments that shaped his career.
Anna and Michael explore his personal relationship with Len Evans, the bold move to pursue the Master of Wine qualification in the UK, and how a dramatic family buyout at Yalumba ultimately pushed him towards creating something entirely his own. They dive into the evolution of the Adelaide Hills, the philosophy behind Shaw + Smith’s vineyard development, the joy of sauvignon blanc, and why gamay is the latest variety capturing their imagination.
This conversation is warm, deeply knowledgeable and peppered with history, personality and insight from someone who has helped steer Australian wine for decades.
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Key Topics DiscussedGrowing up at Yalumba
A childhood within one of Australia’s oldest wine families
The multi-family “estate life” at Yalumba
Sneaking into the castle on the label
The sensory memories of vintage and winery culture
Early exposure to food, wine and hospitality
First roles in wine
Starting on the bottling line at age 13
Time on the Yalumba board as the new generation
Realising there were broader opportunities beyond the family business
Len Evans’ influence
Michael’s father introducing Len Evans into the industry
Len’s humour, generosity and impact on Australian wine
Working unpaid at Len’s Single Bottle Club dinners
How Len encouraged a different way of thinking about wine
Becoming Australia’s first Master of Wine
Challenging the MW program to open to Australians
Moving to London to pursue the qualification
Winning the first Madame Bollinger Tasting Medal
The value of “options” tasting in developing palate accuracy
Chapters / Segments:
00:00 – Introduction & Childhood at Yalumba
02:10 – Early Career in Wine
02:48 – Mentorship & Influences
04:33 – Pursuing the Master of Wine
07:24 – Culinary Adventures
08:04 – The Family Buyout & Shaw + Smith Beginnings
15:09 – Evolution of Adelaide Hills & Vineyard Philosophy
19:16 – Experimentation & Gamay
22:16 – The Other Wine Co. & Creative Experimentation
25:52 – Overcoming Challenges
28:10 – Tolpuddle & Tasmanian Adventures
35:53 – Tasting Room & Visitor Experience
37:07 – MMAD Project & McLaren Vale Expansion
42:19 – Wine Production Strategy & Tasmanian Challenges
44:25 – Final Reflections
Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, Anna Webster, Michael Hill-Smith MW, Shaw + Smith, Tolpuddle, Adelaide Hills wine, Australian wine history, Len Evans, Yalumba, cool climate wine, chardonnay Australia, pinot noir Australia, gamay Australia.