Emily McNally has spent the past two decades furthering the legacy of her parents, Ron and Elva Laughton, who bought a young vineyard in the late 1970s in Heathcote and established the iconic Jasper Hill. 

In this episode, host Anna Webster asks Emily why her parents chose Heathcote, how the region earned its identity (and her family’s role in it), what “organic and dry grown” actually means on the ground, why they’re picking grapes earlier than they used to, and adapting to a hotter, less predictable climate. We also dig into Jasper Hill’s key vineyards, Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock, the wines in the glass, and the honest commercial reality of selling wine – particularly shiraz – in 2026.

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In this episode

00:00 Welcome to 2026, and why Jasper Hill moved to Heathcote
01:20 First vintage (1982) and making great wine with minimal gear
01:50 Heathcote before it was an official GI, and putting the region on the label early
02:40 Chauncy, Heathcote’s iconic restaurant, and the family connection
04:15 How Heathcote has changed (slowly), and why bookings matter at cellar doors
05:10 Growing up on a vineyard, resilience, and the winding road into winemaking
06:50 Vintage in Italy, and learning by doing
07:20 The “slow transition” of taking over from her parents
10:35 Emily’s Paddock vs Georgia’s Paddock, aspects, soils, and varieties
12:55 Organic, dry grown, biodynamics, and keeping soil alive
14:10 Climate change: Drier winters, heavier spring rain, and picking 4–6 weeks earlier
16:10 Fire, recovery, and what you do when a block is gone
19:35 The Jasper Hill range, plus “Georgia and Friends” and why it appears
22:10 Lo Stesso Fiano: Why fiano, how it tastes, and how it differs by grower
24:50 Emily’s Paddock co-ferment: Balancing shiraz ripeness and cabernet franc greenness
28:50 When to drink Jasper Hill: The 10–12 year sweet spot
29:45 Occam’s Razor: Origin story, sourcing changes, and a lighter Heathcote shiraz
33:10 Picking earlier now: Climate and taste, plus the legal shift around must additions
36:05 Labels, history, and why some things do not change
37:00 Is shiraz “out of favour”? Oversupply, choice, exports, and selling in 2026
41:30 What’s next: Vintage 2026 looks smaller, and how they are managing it
42:25 Visiting Jasper Hill: By appointment, and please do not DM on Instagram

Wines and bottles mentioned

• Jasper Hill: Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, Emily’s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc, Georgia’s Paddock Nebbiolo, Georgia’s Paddock Riesling
  
  
• Occam’s Razor Shiraz (Emily’s label)
  
  
• Lo Stesso Fiano (collaboration, fiano focus)
  
  
• “Georgia and Friends” and “The Sisters” (made when seasons force the hand)
  
  

Places and people mentioned

• Heathcote, Victoria (region identity, GI conversation)
  
  
• Chauncy, Heathcote (restaurant)
  
  
• Georgia Roberts (partner in Lo Stesso)
  
  
• Chalmers Vineyard (fruit component referenced in discussion)
  
  

Key takeaways

• Regional identity is made, not granted. Heathcote did not always exist as a recognised region, and championing place mattered early.
  
  
• Organic is a year-round commitment. Composting, cover crops, and soil life are not marketing lines, they are workload.
  
  
• Climate is changing the calendar. Picking earlier is now normal, not exceptional.
  
  
• Selling wine is harder right now. More choice, global oversupply, and softer consumption means more effort for fewer sales.
  
  
• Legacy succession is rarely a moment. The handover from founders to the next generation can be a long, respectful fade rather than a handoff.
  
  

Partners: LANGTONS

The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is presented by LANGTONS.

PLUMM Glassware

This season is also supported by PLUMM, official glassware sponsor of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast.

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