Not even wine snobs are as hardcore as coffee snobs. To pour a great glass of wine, you need a corkscrew and some money. To pour a great cup of coffee, you need beans, gear, time and patience. There is a process, you see. It is complex and requires study. Any gray areas must be marked off as personal territory and argued over. Nothing unleashes righteous indignation in otherwise pleasant people more than coffee. Recently, the venerable kitchen-and-housewares brand Oxo stepped into the bean brewer fray.

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