What does it take to be a young farmer in a digital age? This is the story of two young brothers rising in the maple syrup industry in Vermont. Hear how important the Stewart brothers’ highly loyal and supportive community is to surviving and running a small agrarian business in 2019.
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This season, we're bringing you stories about people finding their professional stride by virtue of who they know, whether it's breathing new life into an age old profession, taking the reins in a family business, forging your own path with a new idea, or landing the perfect job doing something you'd never before even considered. Today reporter Otis Gray ventures out into the deep woods of rural Vermont to meet the Stuart family. Vermont is a state historically known for its agrarian businesses, but a lot of these jobs have faded away over the last few decades. In this iconic New England landscape, the Stuarts run a high stakes operation that is totally dependent on each other, the community, and the environment they live in. Here's Otis. So for the Stuart family, today is a big day. Yeah, today is game day, if not the super Bowl. So we're doing the thing. That's twenty three year old Tanner Stewart and he says super Bowl because running the Stewart's business is like running a football team if the off season were ten to eleven months long. His brother Elliott and his dad Mark agree, Yeah, Yeah, it's that's exactly what it is. It's like the playoffs every day, and if you lose the super Bowl, that sucks. You've got to think about it for a year. And that's basically what happens. It's a lot to take on, but at the same time, there's a lot of good rewards. The reason the stakes are so high is because the family is in the third year of running Stewart maple. Maple syrup is a huge commodity in the Green Mountain State and is a big part of its identity, kind of like how wine is to Italy. But the window for harvesting maple syrup usually lasts only three to five weeks. So unlike most businesses where if you have a bad month you just try to do better the next one, the Stewarts have to make enough money in just one month to support them and their business, and no matter how much they prep in the off season, a lot of their success is totally dependent on the weather. Yeah, yeah, exactly, And that's I guess that's the uniqueness of it all, is that we really are are on a small window from that winter to summer range where we gotta make everything. We're gonna be following Elliot today, but it's important to note that the whole family has gone all in on Stuart Mable. I'm Taras Stewart again, Elliot's brother. My name is Elissa Turgeon. I'm Elliott Stewart's fiance. Ah, I'm Mark Stewart. Elliot's dad, all right, Paul Stewart, his uncle, I'm Gina, and of course his mom Gina Stewart, who Elliot says is the unsung hero of the business. Oh, that's really nice. I make cookies. That's the most important part. She's being modest. She runs the finances of the business and a million other things, while the rest play pivotal roles as well, from sales to social media to the actual boiling of the syrup. Yeah, every single person in our family plays a huge role in the business, and there's not really one person that could be replaced. Having grown up in Vermont myself, I know that every winter is completely different and you never know what it will bring. But for the Stewarts, that unknown is directly tied to their livelihood, and every year around March it always comes down to one question, will the sap run. It's a beautiful sunny March day, snow on the ground, and Elliott Stewart is trying to start our snowmobile so we can go out into the woods. Boy that doesn't run. Probably, to make syrup, you first drill a hole into a maple tree and you tap a little pipe into it. When it gets about freezing the tree, sap drips out of the tap, looking kind of like water. You collect it and then you boil it down to make it more pure and syrupy. But it takes a lot to make a little. About forty gallons of sap will make one gallon of syrup. So the Stewarts have to tap a lot of trees to make a profit. And this year they've tapped twenty thousand trees. And one of Elliot's jobs is to go around the woods and make sure that all of those taps are working just the way that they should. We're up, so I'm on the back as Elliott takes me through the winding trails of the Stuart's Sugar Bush, jugar Bush being the twelve hundred acres of land and maple trees that the family has tapped to collect pure maple sap. The lines go eight thousand feet in each direction from the sugar house. It's about a little over six hundred acres of lines that flow to the sugar house, so it's it's quite a bit of ground to cover. The land itself is shaped like a bowl, a little valley surrounded by mountains covered in maple trees. Light blue tubes that collect sap run like phone lines through the woods and along the trail. It's tough to ring. And we're riding along a trail that looks down at an alarming steep ravine on the left hand side the main lines on our left here there are two inch pipes and it's uh, it's a long ways down to the river down below. So you're climbing down in this ridge. It's like well like sixty degrees trying to get the taps in. Yeah, it's it's steep. It's definitely. There's some spots where you're just like you're hanging on you know, you got to climb with your hands in some spots, and those are those are always fun days. Nobody wants to go to that section of the woods. You break your ankle. You're on your own on a snowmobile, riding through some of New England's iconically beautiful woods. You might get kind of jealous that this is Elliott's day to day job. Yeah, it's definitely. I mean, I'm not mad about it. It's definitely. It's it's not too bad of a thing. Fair weather, it's all good. It's the nasty days that are hard. It is an all sweet, delicious syrup and Robert Frosty and landscapes. The business end of Stuart maple Aside. Their success is highly dependent on mother nature, so there are a lot of variables and the stakes are high. Most of their days are taken up just maintaining the lines between fallen trees and leaks or bad taps and animals biting the lines. Anything could interfere with the SAP running. If you don't take things day to day, it's very overwhelming, you know, when you think about the woods as a whole. We have twelve acres of land with trees down everywhere. And if you're like, if you wake up in the morning and you think you're gonna get it done that day, like you're gonna drive yourself crazy. You gotta take a day to day and do one step at a time, and as long as you're working hard and getting something done every day, it's one step in the right direction. Anyway, just being out here in the woods all the time, you're out in the fresh air and you can think so clearly, and so that honestly, it kind of helps me to be able to process things where you have like five million different things going on, but you can you can easily kind of just go through everything in your head because there's no distractions. You're out here in the woods. There's no noise, it's just cold, and you're just you're just out there hiking. By the time you get tired or you're cold, you go back in and you do it all again the next day, and there's no there's no weekends. You just do it any day the weather is good. It's relaxing in a sense. So that's what you don't want. So that's a that's a big leak, so that what that does. You can see in the line. Each one of these blue lines connects to many trees. They all run down to the sugar house below where we started our ride. The lines are airtight and pull the SAP through a vacuum system through the woods. But if there's a leak like this one, there's no vacuum pressure and any trees behind that leak will be stopped from running as well. Again, this is one of twenty eight thousand taps that they have to keep an eye on. This one's a pretty steep one right here, riding down one of the trails and we have to duck under a big treat that felt right down over one of the main lines. A pretty common nuisance that becomes a serious problem with big storms like this past fall November December time. There we had that crazy heavy wet snow that blanketed the trees, snapped branches, and so we just had we had quite a mess on our hands. It looked like a bomb went off in the woods. Like, oh, man, we had all these lines all cleaned up ready to go, and then oh we got to go back through more chain, said work for a couple of weeks. Elliot's twenty five now. He spent a year at college before deciding he wanted to come back home and go full time into sugaring. He eventually convinced his brother Tanner, who's now twenty three, to do the same. And this is unique here. A lot of young people are leaving Vermont to go find work in bigger cities and lesser sticking around to carry on the agrarian businesses that have long been a big part of the culture. Yeah, we definitely are on an island. It's definitely. Uh, there's just not a lot of people doing like going out on the limb and just hoping that it works. And you know, we're fortunately our parents have supported us with it. My dad's done a similar thing where he was a carpenter all his life and uh, and he took went out on the limb with us um and did the sugaring full time. UM. So we've we've we've basically got to the point where we're like, Okay, well, if we're going to do this, we have to leap. And I think that's actually what's made us pretty successful at it is that we are one hundred percent committed. So like when we go home at the end of the day, we talk about maple syrup. We wake up in the morning where everything is maple all the time, and so we have there's about seventy acres of trees over there, and so that at times can can be a negative because we struggle to shut off from it. So there's a lot of times where it's just like, wow, we've talked nothing about life at all outside of maple syrup. In the off season, the steward spend the entire year prepping for this month, removing old lines, making new trails, repairing damage ones, drilling new trees, finding vendors to buy the syrup once they have it. It's a monumental amount of work that all leads up to right now, you know, you work for nine months, ten months, you don't ever make a penny. You get to a point where you can start to question what you're doing. You're like, wow, I haven't made a single dollar in a long time. You have to really have a good mindset with it and have to trust that you know what you're doing, because if you start to question it, then it's like, oh boy, got we got issues. We'll get back to the story in a second. First, a word from Express Employment Professionals. A strong work ethic takes pride in a job well done. This is you. But to get an honest day's work, you need a callback. You need a job. Express Employment Professionals can help. We'll connect you to the right company. We're committed to your success and never charge a fee to find you a job. Express Nose jobs get to no Express find your location at expresspros dot com or on the Express Jobs app. And now back to our story. We'll back down in the sugar house. You can see pretty quick that after putting in all of that work, the payoff can be pretty sweet. That is the sound of sap flowing a lot of it down at the sugar House. All the lines from the woods feed into this big cement box the size of a small basement, lined with a food safe plastic. It's really good site for you. Yeah, oh yeah, this is exciting. This is the excitement that we wait for throughout the year. This is what we work for, and it's rewarding to see it happened like this. That is a swimming pool filled with a sap. I think we'll probably be close to eighty thousand gallons of sap over the last like forty eight hours, which is a lot. This basement size holding tank where the sap runs into it fills fast. And now this is when Elliott's dad Mark lets the sap flow into a giant boiler that looks like a stainless steel train car. And this right here is how they make their finished product. They boil out most of the water, turning the sap from two percent sugar into sixty six percent sugar. So how many gallons are you going to be making a day thing? Probably around five hundred gallons somewhere in there, five to six hundred gallons of syrup a finished product, finished product, yet lots of syrup in a short amount of time, with to day being game day, I asked the rest of the family how they were feeling today is awesome. It's wonderful to see the sun come out and the SAP finally run and it's a good thing. And how's the Super Bowl going today? Not bad? I think we're up at halftime. We're doing well right now, so not mad about it, that's for sure. The game is strong today. We've got a great chance of taking this swan home. Also, the steam of the maple syrup smell is pretty good, so you're kind of in like a little like maple syrup high when you're in there, so the maple bubble exactly. So it's a good day for the Stewart family. And after touring the woods in the sugar house, I could tell that the reason for their success is because they all rely on each other. Like Elliott said, none of them can be replaced, and seeing them work together, that is abundantly clear. But just as much as a family depending on each other to make a livelihood, a lot of their business depends on the community too. There's a a lot of hoops to jump through, a lot of different roadblocks along the way, but with the support of the community, you know, uh, it's made it all happen. In return, they've actually given opportunities to their neighbors that didn't even exist before, like the Stewarts leasing trees from their neighbors each year at a dollar apiece. It kind of gives landowners of Avenue to make a little money off their property. And you know, adds up fast as a least payment, so they appreciate a check in the spring and in a gallon of stirrup or whatever, and so like it's a kind of a new way to make a little income off of a property. I also I have to mention a few other buy products of the Stuart's Maple business that really blew my mind. First, right next to that swimming pool sized tank filled with SAP is an equally big tank filled with crystal blue water. This year, we'll produce a million gallons of water a million gallons. That's because they actually on the sap through a reverse osmosis machine before they boil. Basically, it's just a machine that helps separate the water from the sugar so they can save a little bit of money on boiling. That separated water is pure beautiful water that they can sell to a bottled water company that specializes in just that, and we have a contract with them to start selling it as tree filtered organic water. Pretty cool. Second, all those trails that they've made to work on their lines are now open to everyone as a public hiking trail system, which I think is just amazing. And lastly, they've inadvertently become environmental warriors of sorts. That's because the way that the Stuarts are growing and the more land that they occupy, it means that they play a big role in the landscape around them thriving. So they regularly work with a forester to always make sure that they're tapping responsibly and with the leasing that they do for their neighbors. Elliott preaches the long term economic value of sugaring versus cutting down a tree for its lumber. If we can promote the value of the woods, they won't be cut down because there's more value to keeping them standing. Like sugaring is really tied to the forest health real heavily, and uh, you know, we're really reliant on a healthy woods, which is what we're trying to always work to achieve that. Just as the maple syrup that they make now is a perfect representation of the land. They are becoming a big part of the area's identity, and with each other to rely on, they only have plans to keep growing. You know, we've grown the o our business to where our business kind of our sandbox is a lot bigger than it used to be. I guess is a simple way to put it. Giant playground. I mean, we're always in the woods and building forts in the woods. Our hands are always dirty, our clothes are always dirty. We are always outside. And you know, this work is literally no different than my childhood. You know, it's literally the same exact thing where it's the same hill. You know, it's the uh the same area, and uh, you know I can get out there and enjoy it literally what we did as as kids, you know, and uh it's it's fun. We're on the job my modus Gray. Wow, thanks for listening to On the Job, brought to you by Express Employment Professionals. Find out more at Express pros dot com. This season of the Job is produced by Audiation and dread Seat Ventures. Our executive producer is Sandy Smallens. Our producer is Otis Gray. The show is mixed by Matt Noble at The Loft in Bronxville, New York. Find us on iHeartRadio and Apple podcasts. If you liked what you heard, please consider rating or reviewing the show on Apple Podcasts or wherever you listen. We'll see you next time. For more inspiring stories about discovering your life's work, audiation