Nepal with Ila Reddy

The Musafir Stories - India Travel Podcast

This week, The Musafir Stories speaks with Ila Reddy, a returning guest and listener as she takes us to the ancient kingdoms of Newar.

Today's destination: Nepal

Nearest Airport: Tribhuvan International Airport, KTM

Nearest Railway Station: N/A

Prerequisites: N/A

Packing: Pack according to the season

Time of the year: September - Feb

Length of the itinerary: 9 days

Itinerary Highlights:

Ila takes us overseas as we discover the Newari capitals of Nepal - Patan, Bhaktapur along with other places like Panauti and Bharatpur! Historically, the Nepal valley and adjoining areas made up a confederation known as the Nepal Mandala. Until the 15th century, Bhaktapur was its capital, when two other capitals, Kathmandu and Lalitpur (Patan), were established.
The trip was done with the Community Homestay Network (CHN). The Community Homestay Network (CHN) is a social enterprise that supports a network of homestays run by local women and families across Nepal. Their homestay model provides hosts with an additional source of income and the opportunity to meet travelers from around the world, while travelers get a taste of the local way of life.
The best part is that 80% of the revenue goes directly to the community and is used for family and household expenses, education, personal development, community activities, and community development
We begin the journey by flying into Kathmandu and making our way to Patan/Lalitpur, one of the ancient cities of the Newari kingdom.
The Durbar Square is one of the iconic locations of Patan that is made up of a number of temples and provides a view into the wonderful architecture of the region.
The prominent temples of Patan Durbar Square include:: Krishna Temple, Royal Palace Patan, Jagannarayan Temple, Keshav Narayan Temple, Char Naarayan Temple, Golden Temple and others.
On the east side of the square looms the impressive Ancient Royal Palace, which dates back to the late 1600s. With its red-brick walls, tiered rooftop pavilions and latticed window screens, the palace is a shining example of traditional Nepalese architecture.
The next stop is the Golden Temple Also known as Kwa Bahal and Hiranyavarna Mahavihara, this Buddhist monastery takes its English name from the beautiful golden metalwork which adorns its façade. We also speak of the rich traditional food from Nepal - including local candy, thalis, daal and sabzi.
The next pitstop is Bharatpur - to experience the life of the Tharu community that lives around the Chitwan national park. Besides the rhinos and mustard fields, the experience is all about the time spent with the community, sampling their way of life, food and celebrations!
Ila makes a short trip back to Patan again, which they used as their base camp. In this leg, Ila covers the Paubha painting workshop which she was a part of. The painting is native to Nepal and is similar to the Tibetan Thangka paintings and involves detailing of Hindu mythological figures and deities and Mandalas. Paubha painting is treated as a form of meditation by its practitioners, and mastering the pattern of even a single leaf, wave, or cloud can take weeks.
The next stop from Patan is Bhaktapur, another of the capitals of the Valley. Bhaktapur, the "City of Devotees," is also known for Newar traditions, food, and artisans, and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Nepal
The Bhaktapur Durbar Square - is similar to the one in Patan, except that the temples are more massive. There are several smaller squares or chowks and the one with pottery shops was particularly beautiful. Like Patan, the area is best explored on foot and the local mitho doi (similar to Bengali mishti doi, or sweet curd) is a must-try!
Ila moves to Panuati after spending time in Bhaktapur - Panauti is a historical city in Nepal, originally it was a small state given by King Bhupatindra Malla as a dowry to his sister.
Ila explores a few temples, walked around the market and alleys, and even made a day trip to Namobuddha Monastery, located atop a hill and offering exceptional views of the snow peaks.
The final stop is a quick return to Patan where Ila takes part in a Ranjana lippi workshop, the traditional script of the Newari people as well as a quick visit to Kathmandu to visit the Pashupatinath temple and a sound bath meditation!