Charles Nessler is usually credited with inventing the permanent wave in the early 1900s. And he made a huge fortune from it, while also bolstering a huge beauty industry.

Research:
Bedi, Joyce. “GERMANY | Charles (Karl) Nessler.” Lemelson Center for the Study of Invention and Innovation. Smithsonian National Museum of American History. June 3, 2021. https://invention.si.edu/node/29205/p/732-germany-charles-karl-nessler
Hellman, Geoffrey T. “Profiles: Hair Scientist.” The New Yorker. April 29, 1933. https://archives.newyorker.com/newyorker/1933-04-29/flipbook/020/
Larkin, Theresa. “From straight to curly, thick to thin: Here's how hormones and chemotherapy can change your hair.” MedicalExpress. Jan. 14, 2024. https://medicalxpress.com/news/2024-01-straight-curly-thick-thin-hormones.html
“115 Years of Long-Lasting Curls: The History and Rebirth of the Perm.” Estetica Magazine. Feb. 8, 2022. https://www.esteticamagazine.com/2022/02/08/111-years-of-long-lasting-curls-the-history-and-rebirth-of-the-perm/
Marsden, Rhodri. “Rhodri Marsden's Interesting Objects: The Nessler Permanent Wave Machine.” The Independent. Oct. 9, 2015. https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/rhodri-marsden-s-interesting-objects-the-nessler-permanent-wave-machine-a6674081.html
“Modern Living: The Great Wave.” Time. Feb. 5, 1951. https://time.com/archive/6825188/modern-living-the-great-wave/
Morton, Ella. “The Alarming Aesthetics of Jazz Age Perm Machines.” Atlas Obscura. Aug. 2, 2016. https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-alarming-aesthetics-of-jazz-age-perm-machines
Nessler, Charles. “The Story of Hair.” New York. Bonni and Liveright. 1928.
Nessler, Charles. “A New or Improved Method of and Means for the Manufacture of Artificial Eyebrows, Eyelashes and the like.” UK Patent Office. Accessed via Google: https://patents.google.com/patent/GB190218723A/en
“Nessler, Invented Permanent Wave.” New York Times. January 24, 1951. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1951/01/24/88426426.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
“A Revolutionst Dies.” Life Magazine. Feb. 5, 1951. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=50sEAAAAMBAJ&q=nestler#v=onepage&q=nessler&f=false
Sheen, Maureen. “Story of Us, 1910-1920: Do the Wave.” American Salon. Jan. 20, 2016. https://www.americansalon.com/products/story-us-1910-1920-do-wave

Charles Nessler is usually credited with inventing the permanent wave in the early 1900s. And he made a huge fortune from it, while also bolstering a huge beauty industry.
Research:
<ul>
<li>Bedi, Joyce. “GERMANY | Charles (Karl) Nessler.” Lemelson Center for the Study of Invention and Innovation. Smithsonian National Museum of American History. June 3, 2021. https://invention.si.edu/node/29205/p/732-germany-charles-karl-nessler</li>
<li>Hellman, Geoffrey T. “Profiles: Hair Scientist.” The New Yorker. April 29, 1933. https://archives.newyorker.com/newyorker/1933-04-29/flipbook/020/</li>
<li>Larkin, Theresa. “From straight to curly, thick to thin: Here's how hormones and chemotherapy can change your hair.” MedicalExpress. Jan. 14, 2024. https://medicalxpress.com/news/2024-01-straight-curly-thick-thin-hormones.html</li>
<li>“115 Years of Long-Lasting Curls: The History and Rebirth of the Perm.” Estetica Magazine. Feb. 8, 2022. https://www.esteticamagazine.com/2022/02/08/111-years-of-long-lasting-curls-the-history-and-rebirth-of-the-perm/</li>
<li>Marsden, Rhodri. “Rhodri Marsden's Interesting Objects: The Nessler Permanent Wave Machine.” The Independent. Oct. 9, 2015. https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/rhodri-marsden-s-interesting-objects-the-nessler-permanent-wave-machine-a6674081.html</li>
<li>“Modern Living: The Great Wave.” Time. Feb. 5, 1951. https://time.com/archive/6825188/modern-living-the-great-wave/</li>
<li>Morton, Ella. “The Alarming Aesthetics of Jazz Age Perm Machines.” Atlas Obscura. Aug. 2, 2016. https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-alarming-aesthetics-of-jazz-age-perm-machines</li>
<li>Nessler, Charles. “The Story of Hair.” New York. Bonni and Liveright. 1928.</li>
<li>Nessler, Charles. “A New or Improved Method of and Means for the Manufacture of Artificial Eyebrows, Eyelashes and the like.” UK Patent Office. Accessed via Google: https://patents.google.com/patent/GB190218723A/en</li>
<li>“Nessler, Invented Permanent Wave.” New York Times. January 24, 1951. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1951/01/24/88426426.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&amp;ip=0</li>
<li>“A Revolutionst Dies.” Life Magazine. Feb. 5, 1951. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=50sEAAAAMBAJ&amp;q=nestler#v=onepage&amp;q=nessler&amp;f=false</li>
<li>Sheen, Maureen. “Story of Us, 1910-1920: Do the Wave.” American Salon. Jan. 20, 2016. https://www.americansalon.com/products/story-us-1910-1920-do-wave</li>
</ul>

Join Holly and Tracy as they bring you the greatest and strangest Stuff You Missed In History Class in this podcast by iHeartRadio.

Stuff You Missed in History Class

Charles Nessler’s Permanent Waves

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/clips/7882a1fd-b17d-49c3-bf5b-b1c80159261a/transcript

Braid is known for his work in hypnotism. But he was also a surgeon with a reputation for pioneering new treatments before he became fascinated with the scientific underpinnings of mesmerism.

Research:
Braid, James, and Arthur Edward Waite, ed. “Braid on hypnotism. Neurypnology; or, The rationale of nervous sleep considered in relation to animal magnetism or mesmerism and illustrated by numerous cases of its successful application in the relief and cure of disease.” London. George Redway. 1899. https://archive.org/details/braidonhypnotism00brai/page/n7/mode/2up
“Clubfoot.” Cleveland Clinic. July 6, 2023. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/16889-clubfoot
Crabtree A. “1784: The Marquis de Puységur and the psychological turn in the west.” J Hist Behav Sci.2019;55:199–215. https://doi.org/10.1002/jhbs.21974
Fletcher, George. “James Braid Of Manchester.” The British Medical Journal, vol. 2, no. 3590, 1929, pp. 776–77. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25334090
Hull, Clark L. “Hypnotism in Scientific Perspective.” The Scientific Monthly, vol. 29, no. 2, 1929, pp. 154–62. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/14677
“Hypnotism.” Yorkville Enquirer. Feb. 23, 1860. https://www.newspapers.com/image/339341468/?match=1&terms=James%20Braid
Lafontaine’s Third Conversazione on Mesmerism.” The Manchester Times and Manchester and Salford Advertiser and Chronicle. Nov. 20, 1841. https://www.newspapers.com/image/406088965/?match=1&terms=lafontaine
Loudon, I. “Why are (male) surgeons still addressed as Mr?.” BMJ (Clinical research ed.) 321,7276 (2000): 1589-91. doi:10.1136/bmj.321.7276.1589
Macklis, R M. “Magnetic healing, quackery, and the debate about the health effects of electromagnetic fields.” Annals of internal medicine 118,5 (1993): 376-83. doi:10.7326/0003-4819-118-5-199303010-00009
Martin, Christy. “Mesmerized.” Science History Institute. Dec. 6, 2011. https://www.sciencehistory.org/stories/magazine/mesmerized/
Bramwell, J. Milne. “Hypnotism and treatment by suggestion.” New York. Da Capo Press. 1982. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/hypnotismandtre00bramgoog/page/n6/mode/1up
Rouse, Tyler. “The brief and strange history of mesmerism and surgery.” Hektoen International. Winter 2019. https://hekint.org/2018/12/24/the-brief-and-strange-history-of-mesmerism-and-surgery/
Sandby, George. “Mesmerism and its opponents.” London. Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans. 1848. https://archive.org/details/mesmerismandits01sandgoog
“Sudden Death of Mr. James Braid, Surgeon.” The Guardian. March 26, 1860. https://www.newspapers.com/image/257847287/?match=1&terms=James%20Braid
Weidow, Brandy, M.S. “James Braid.” Ebsco. 2024. https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/health-and-medicine/james-braid
Yeates, Lindsay Bertram. “James Braid: Surgeon, Gentleman Scientist, and Hypnotist.” University of New South Wales, Sydney. 2013. https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/entities/publication/7573cb34-ceb9-41bb-a8b1-0951e93fdd10

 

 

Braid is known for his work in hypnotism. But he was also a surgeon with a reputation for pioneering new treatments before he became fascinated with the scientific underpinnings of mesmerism.
Research:
<ul>
<li>Braid, James, and Arthur Edward Waite, ed. &ldquo;Braid on hypnotism. Neurypnology; or, The rationale of nervous sleep considered in relation to animal magnetism or mesmerism and illustrated by numerous cases of its successful application in the relief and cure of disease.&rdquo; London. George Redway. 1899. https://archive.org/details/braidonhypnotism00brai/page/n7/mode/2up</li>
<li>&ldquo;Clubfoot.&rdquo; Cleveland Clinic. July 6, 2023. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/16889-clubfoot</li>
<li>Crabtree&nbsp;A. &ldquo;1784: The Marquis de Puys&eacute;gur and the psychological turn in the west.&rdquo; J Hist Behav Sci.2019;55:199&ndash;215.&nbsp;https://doi.org/10.1002/jhbs.21974</li>
<li>Fletcher, George. &ldquo;James Braid Of Manchester.&rdquo; The British Medical Journal, vol. 2, no. 3590, 1929, pp. 776&ndash;77. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25334090</li>
<li>Hull, Clark L. &ldquo;Hypnotism in Scientific Perspective.&rdquo;&nbsp;The Scientific Monthly, vol. 29, no. 2, 1929, pp. 154&ndash;62.&nbsp;JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/14677</li>
<li>&ldquo;Hypnotism.&rdquo; Yorkville Enquirer. Feb. 23, 1860. https://www.newspapers.com/image/339341468/?match=1&amp;terms=James%20Braid</li>
<li>Lafontaine&rsquo;s Third Conversazione on Mesmerism.&rdquo; The Manchester Times and Manchester and Salford Advertiser and Chronicle. Nov. 20, 1841. https://www.newspapers.com/image/406088965/?match=1&amp;terms=lafontaine</li>
<li>Loudon, I. &ldquo;Why are (male) surgeons still addressed as Mr?.&rdquo;&nbsp;BMJ (Clinical research ed.) 321,7276 (2000): 1589-91. doi:10.1136/bmj.321.7276.1589</li>
<li>Macklis, R M. &ldquo;Magnetic healing, quackery, and the debate about the health effects of electromagnetic fields.&rdquo;&nbsp;Annals of internal medicine 118,5 (1993): 376-83. doi:10.7326/0003-4819-118-5-199303010-00009</li>
<li>Martin, Christy. &ldquo;Mesmerized.&rdquo; Science History Institute. Dec. 6, 2011. https://www.sciencehistory.org/stories/magazine/mesmerized/</li>
<li>Bramwell, J. Milne. &ldquo;Hypnotism and treatment by suggestion.&rdquo; New York. Da Capo Press. 1982. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/hypnotismandtre00bramgoog/page/n6/mode/1up</li>
<li>Rouse, Tyler. &ldquo;The brief and strange history of mesmerism and surgery.&rdquo; Hektoen International. Winter 2019. https://hekint.org/2018/12/24/the-brief-and-strange-history-of-mesmerism-and-surgery/</li>
<li>Sandby, George. &ldquo;Mesmerism and its opponents.&rdquo; London. Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans. 1848. https://archive.org/details/mesmerismandits01sandgoog</li>
<li>&ldquo;Sudden Death of Mr. James Braid, Surgeon.&rdquo; The Guardian. March 26, 1860. https://www.newspapers.com/image/257847287/?match=1&amp;terms=James%20Braid</li>
<li>Weidow, Brandy, M.S. &ldquo;James Braid.&rdquo; Ebsco. 2024. https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/health-and-medicine/james-braid</li>
<li>Yeates, Lindsay Bertram. &ldquo;James Braid: Surgeon, Gentleman Scientist, and Hypnotist.&rdquo; University of New South Wales, Sydney. 2013. https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/entities/publication/7573cb34-ceb9-41bb-a8b1-0951e93fdd10</li>
</ul>
&nbsp;
&nbsp;

Braid is known for his work in hypnotism. But he was also a surgeon with a reputation for pioneering new treatments before he became fascinated with the scientific underpinnings of mesmerism.

James Braid, Surgeon and Father of Hypnotism

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/clips/c4aa40e7-9127-42d2-98a1-b426007319da/transcript

Gladys Bentley was a part of the Harlem Renaissance as a performer – she played piano and sang in ways that drew huge crowds starting in the 1920s, and she was completely out as a lesbian. But her story takes some surprising turns.

Research:
Adkins, Judith. “These People Are Frightened to Death.” Prologue Magazine. National Archives. Summer 2016. Vol. 48, No. 2. https://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/2016/summer/lavender.html
Britannica Editors. "rent party". Encyclopedia Britannica, 23 Nov. 2016, https://www.britannica.com/topic/rent-party
Chase, Bill. “House Rent Parties Were an Institution.” New York Age. Oct. 29, 1949. https://www.newspapers.com/image/40993834/?match=1&terms=Gladys%20Bentley
Church, Moira Mahoney. “If This Be Sin: Gladys Bentley And The Performance Of Identity.” University of South Carolia. (Theses and Dissertations.) 2018. https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=5705&context=etd
“Colored Detective Lieutenant Acquitted of Murder Charge.” Philadelphia Tribune. Aug. 4, 1927. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135383911/?match=1&terms=Maceo%20Sheffield
The Doll House advertisement. Dec. 12, 1947. https://www.newspapers.com/image/580248504/?match=1&terms=Gladys%20Bentley
“Gladys Bentley, Entertainer, Dies.” Alabama Tribune. Montgomery, Alabama. February 12, 1960. https://www.newspapers.com/image/554602763/?clipping_id=66402293
“Harlem’s Gladys Alberta Bentley, Friend Of Cary Grant, Stanwyck, And Others, Way ‘Out’ Ahead Of Her Time.” Harlem World. June 24, 2023 https://www.harlemworldmagazine.com/harlems-gladys-alberta-bentley-friend-of-cary-grant-stanwyck-and-others-way-out-ahead-of-her-time/
“J.T. Gipson Dead.” California Eagle. July 17, 1952. https://www.newspapers.com/image/693556889/?clipping_id=172230200
Levette, Harry. “Movie Lots Gossip.” The Call. Aug, 22, 1952. https://www.newspapers.com/image/957555211/?match=1&terms=%22Never%20Married%20to%20Gladys%20Bentley%22
Moses, Alvin. “Alvin Moses Says.” Chicago Defender. Dec. 30, 1944. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135809373/?match=1&terms=Gladys%20Bentley
“New York Police Launch Drive on Harlem Cafes.” The Chicago Defender. March 17, 1934. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1136311398/?match=1&terms=Gladys%20bentley
Onion, Rebecca. “An Affectionate 1932 Illustrated Map of Harlem Nightlife.” Slate. April 15, 2016. https://slate.com/human-interest/2016/04/e-simms-campbell-s-1932-illustrated-map-of-harlem-nightlife.html
Roy, Rob. “’8 to the Bar,’ Style Gladys Bentley Made Famous, a World Favorite Today.” The Chicago Defender. May 14, 1955. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135895140/?match=1&terms=Gladys%20Bentley
Russonello, Giovanni. “Gladys Bentley.” New York Times. Overlooked. 2019. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/gladys-bentley-overlooked.html
Shah, Haleema. “The Great Blues Singer Gladys Bentley Broke All the Rules.” Smithsonian. March 14, 2019. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/great-blues-singer-gladys-bentley-broke-rules-180971708/
“Wales Padlock Law Censors Risque Theater.” EBSCO. https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/social-sciences-and-humanities/wales-padlock-law-censors-risque-theater
Wilson, James F. “Bulldaggers, Pansies, and Chocolate Babies PERFORMANCE, RACE, AND SEXUALITY IN THE HARLEM RENAISSANCE.” University of Michigan Press. 2010.
Winchell, Walter. “On Broadway.” Evening Courier. Feb. 6, 1933. https://www.newspapers.com/image/480106281/?match=1&terms=%22Gladys%20Bentley%22
Yaeger, Patricia. “Editor’s Note: Bulldagger Sings the Blues.” PMLA, vol. 124, no. 3, 2009, pp. 721–26. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25614318

Gladys Bentley was a part of the Harlem Renaissance as a performer &ndash; she played piano and sang in ways that drew huge crowds starting in the 1920s, and she was completely out as a lesbian. But her story takes some surprising turns.
Research:
<ul>
<li>Adkins, Judith. &ldquo;These People Are Frightened to Death.&rdquo; Prologue Magazine. National Archives. Summer 2016. Vol. 48, No. 2. https://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/2016/summer/lavender.html</li>
<li>Britannica Editors. "rent party".&nbsp;Encyclopedia Britannica, 23 Nov. 2016, https://www.britannica.com/topic/rent-party</li>
<li>Chase, Bill. &ldquo;House Rent Parties Were an Institution.&rdquo; New York Age. Oct. 29, 1949. https://www.newspapers.com/image/40993834/?match=1&amp;terms=Gladys%20Bentley</li>
<li>Church, Moira Mahoney. &ldquo;If This Be Sin: Gladys Bentley And The Performance Of Identity.&rdquo; University of South Carolia. (Theses and Dissertations.) 2018. https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=5705&amp;context=etd</li>
<li>&ldquo;Colored Detective Lieutenant Acquitted of Murder Charge.&rdquo; Philadelphia Tribune. Aug. 4, 1927. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135383911/?match=1&amp;terms=Maceo%20Sheffield</li>
<li>The Doll House advertisement. Dec. 12, 1947. https://www.newspapers.com/image/580248504/?match=1&amp;terms=Gladys%20Bentley</li>
<li>&ldquo;Gladys Bentley, Entertainer, Dies.&rdquo; Alabama Tribune. Montgomery, Alabama. February 12, 1960. https://www.newspapers.com/image/554602763/?clipping_id=66402293</li>
<li>&ldquo;Harlem&rsquo;s Gladys Alberta Bentley, Friend Of Cary Grant, Stanwyck, And Others, Way &lsquo;Out&rsquo; Ahead Of Her Time.&rdquo; Harlem World. June 24, 2023 https://www.harlemworldmagazine.com/harlems-gladys-alberta-bentley-friend-of-cary-grant-stanwyck-and-others-way-out-ahead-of-her-time/</li>
<li>&ldquo;J.T. Gipson Dead.&rdquo; California Eagle. July 17, 1952. https://www.newspapers.com/image/693556889/?clipping_id=172230200</li>
<li>Levette, Harry. &ldquo;Movie Lots Gossip.&rdquo; The Call. Aug, 22, 1952. https://www.newspapers.com/image/957555211/?match=1&amp;terms=%22Never%20Married%20to%20Gladys%20Bentley%22</li>
<li>Moses, Alvin. &ldquo;Alvin Moses Says.&rdquo; Chicago Defender. Dec. 30, 1944. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135809373/?match=1&amp;terms=Gladys%20Bentley</li>
<li>&ldquo;New York Police Launch Drive on Harlem Cafes.&rdquo; The Chicago Defender. March 17, 1934. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1136311398/?match=1&amp;terms=Gladys%20bentley</li>
<li>Onion, Rebecca. &ldquo;An Affectionate 1932 Illustrated Map of Harlem Nightlife.&rdquo; Slate. April 15, 2016. https://slate.com/human-interest/2016/04/e-simms-campbell-s-1932-illustrated-map-of-harlem-nightlife.html</li>
<li>Roy, Rob. &ldquo;&rsquo;8 to the Bar,&rsquo; Style Gladys Bentley Made Famous, a World Favorite Today.&rdquo; The Chicago Defender. May 14, 1955. https://www.newspapers.com/image/1135895140/?match=1&amp;terms=Gladys%20Bentley</li>
<li>Russonello, Giovanni. &ldquo;Gladys Bentley.&rdquo; New York Times. Overlooked. 2019. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/gladys-bentley-overlooked.html</li>
<li>Shah, Haleema. &ldquo;The Great Blues Singer Gladys Bentley Broke All the Rules.&rdquo; Smithsonian. March 14, 2019. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/great-blues-singer-gladys-bentley-broke-rules-180971708/</li>
<li>&ldquo;Wales Padlock Law Censors Risque Theater.&rdquo; EBSCO. https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/social-sciences-and-humanities/wales-padlock-law-censors-risque-theater</li>
<li>Wilson, James F. &ldquo;Bulldaggers, Pansies, and Chocolate Babies PERFORMANCE, RACE, AND SEXUALITY IN THE HARLEM RENAISSANCE.&rdquo; University of Michigan Press. 2010.</li>
<li>Winchell, Walter. &ldquo;On Broadway.&rdquo; Evening Courier. Feb. 6, 1933. https://www.newspapers.com/image/480106281/?match=1&amp;terms=%22Gladys%20Bentley%22</li>
<li>Yaeger, Patricia. &ldquo;Editor&rsquo;s Note: Bulldagger Sings the Blues.&rdquo;&nbsp;PMLA, vol. 124, no. 3, 2009, pp. 721&ndash;26.&nbsp;JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25614318</li>
</ul>

Gladys Bentley was a part of the Harlem Renaissance as a performer – she played piano and sang in ways that drew huge crowds starting in the 1920s, and she was completely out as a lesbian. But her story takes some surprising turns.

Gladys Bentley

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/clips/d563878e-65c5-40a7-9dd5-b4240085831a/transcript

This 2022 episode covers Moms Mabley, whose career lasted more than six decades. She was hugely influential, and inspired so many comedians and other performers who came after her.

This 2022 episode covers Moms Mabley, whose career lasted more than six decades. She was hugely influential, and inspired so many comedians and other performers who came after her.

SYMHC Classics: Moms Mabley

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/clips/dc7d5bf6-1469-4641-a51d-b4220008e451/transcript

Charles Nessler’s Permanent Waves

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