It’s been a weird winter – cool and often wet. Indeed, I grew a few edibles in my tunnel house after most of the tomatoes had been removed.   

With rubbish weather I tend to divert to bird hobbies, rather than vegie-garden maintenance. But in early August things become a bit more positive, and today that was highlighted when I visited my old mate Mike (a Scottish builder with heaps of Scottish humour). 

He had already planted small strawberry plants under a cover of dense pea-straw – yes, next summer’s fruit extravaganza: STRAWBERRIES! New Zealand Gardener usually gives you the latest varieties available. 



I had totally forgotten that I could have planted them a month or so ago, here on the port hills! Time to become a lot less lazy! 

Friable, well-draining soil with heaps of organic material in the top layers. Some granular, general fertiliser (not too much – just a bit) so that the roots will lick their food on the warmer, early-Spring days. The pea-straw (and mulch) protects plants from heavy frosts (and later on as a medium on which the developing fruit will stay in dryer conditions – not on wet soil). 

Go to your local garden centre and ask the local experts what kind of strawberry varieties work well in your neighbourhood –  I bet they’ll have Cama Rosa and Camino Real as their “short day” varieties (they can be planted in May-June). 

Other varieties, such as Aromas, Seascape, and San Andreas are day-neutral and can be planted in spring.  

While the strawberries are slowly getting in their winter development, it may be useful to take a look at your rhubarb. This plant tends to be reasonably tolerant of a bit of frost – if the frosts are heavy and mean, you might find that patience will be a good virtue. I saw it growing in Mongolia in the wild (permafrost), in the deserts (dry as a bone), with big weta-like critters hiding underneath! 

It’s a great crop if you’re into crumbles and fruity bits for breakfast (with muesli and yoghurt and soaked sultanas) and stuff like rhubarb pies. 



In good hot summers it might take a break in the hottest period of the year. In the North/hot areas, it may pay to allocate a cooler spot and some shade for the warmest period of the day to stop it “bolting” – the flower stalks can be broken off, the edges of the leaves can become beautifully red, but it’s a sign of the breakdown of chlorophyll and hence the beginning of summer die-back.  

Rhubarb requires a nice, fertile free-draining soil, so if you’ve got heavy clay soil break it up and add heaps of compost to make it friable. 

Alternatively: plant it above the soil level (in a raised bed). I reckon you can even grow it in a big container with good mix, but keep it watered, so it doesn’t dry out too much. 

Fertiliser: rhubarb loves compost and manure (yes, some rotted cow poo/sheep/pig or horse –  preferably gone through a composting cycle). 

Keep the plant base free of weeds. Pests and diseases are usually of no great concern – slugs and snails are your main problem and they will only go on the leaves. Copper sprays may prevent leaf-spots, but they’re not a big deal usually. 

Harvest: cut the stems for consumption and use leaves in compost bins (all good – the oxalic acid is not going to harm anything in that bin!). 

Alternatively, the large leaves are great on the ground as “weed mat”. 

Look around for various cultivars – if you are lucky you might find some of the old-fashioned bright red varieties that look fantastic: Moulin Rouge, Crimson Crumble, Cherry Red, Ruby Red, Glaskin’s Perpetual… 

LISTEN ABOVE 

It’s been a weird winter – cool and often wet. Indeed, I grew a few edibles in my tunnel house after most of the tomatoes had been removed. &nbsp;&nbsp;
With rubbish weather I tend to divert to bird hobbies, rather than vegie-garden maintenance. But in early August things become a bit more positive, and today that was highlighted when I visited my old mate Mike (a Scottish builder with heaps of Scottish humour).&nbsp;
He had already planted small strawberry plants under a cover of dense pea-straw – yes, next summer’s fruit extravaganza: STRAWBERRIES! New Zealand Gardener usually gives you the latest varieties available.&nbsp;

I had totally forgotten that I could have planted them a month or so ago, here on the port hills! Time to become a lot less lazy!&nbsp;
Friable, well-draining soil with heaps of organic material in the top layers. Some granular, general fertiliser (not too much – just a bit) so that the roots will lick their food on the warmer, early-Spring days. The pea-straw (and mulch) protects plants from heavy frosts (and later on as a medium on which the developing fruit will stay in dryer conditions – not on wet soil).&nbsp;
Go to your local garden centre and ask the local experts what kind of strawberry varieties work well in your neighbourhood – &nbsp;I bet they’ll have Cama Rosa and Camino Real as their “short day” varieties (they can be planted in May-June).&nbsp;
Other varieties, such as Aromas, Seascape, and San Andreas are day-neutral and can be planted in spring. &nbsp;
While the strawberries are slowly getting in their winter development, it may be useful to take a look at your rhubarb. This plant tends to be reasonably tolerant of a bit of frost – if the frosts are heavy and mean, you might find that patience will be a good virtue. I saw it growing in Mongolia in the wild (permafrost), in the deserts (dry as a bone), with big weta-like critters hiding underneath!&nbsp;
It’s a great crop if you’re into crumbles and fruity bits for breakfast (with muesli and yoghurt and soaked sultanas) and stuff like rhubarb pies.&nbsp;

In good hot summers it might take a break in the hottest period of the year. In the North/hot areas, it may pay to allocate a cooler spot and some shade for the warmest period of the day to stop it “bolting” – the flower stalks can be broken off, the edges of the leaves can become beautifully red, but it’s a sign of the breakdown of chlorophyll and hence the beginning of summer die-back. &nbsp;
Rhubarb requires a nice, fertile free-draining soil, so if you’ve got heavy clay soil break it up and add heaps of compost to make it friable.&nbsp;
Alternatively: plant it above the soil level (in a raised bed). I reckon you can even grow it in a big container with good mix, but keep it watered, so it doesn’t dry out too much.&nbsp;
Fertiliser: rhubarb loves compost and manure (yes, some rotted cow poo/sheep/pig or horse – &nbsp;preferably gone through a composting cycle).&nbsp;
Keep the plant base free of weeds. Pests and diseases are usually of no great concern – slugs and snails are your main problem and they will only go on the leaves. Copper sprays may prevent leaf-spots, but they’re not a big deal usually.&nbsp;
Harvest: cut the stems for consumption and use leaves in compost bins (all good – the oxalic acid is not going to harm anything in that bin!).&nbsp;
Alternatively, the large leaves are great on the ground as “weed mat”.&nbsp;
Look around for various cultivars – if you are lucky you might find some of the old-fashioned bright red varieties that look fantastic: Moulin Rouge, Crimson Crumble, Cherry Red, Ruby Red, Glaskin’s Perpetual…&nbsp;
LISTEN ABOVE&nbsp;

Jack Tame’s crisp perspective, style and enthusiasm makes for refreshing and entertaining Saturday morning radio on Newstalk ZB.

News, sport, books, music, gardens and celebrities – what better way to spend your Saturdays?

Jack Tame’s crisp perspective, style and enthusiasm makes for refreshing and entertaining Saturday morning radio on Newstalk ZB. News, sport, books, music, gardens and celebrities – what better way to spend your Saturdays?

Jack Tame’s crisp perspective, style and enthusiasm makes for refreshing and entertaining Saturday morning radio on Newstalk ZB.News, sport, books, music, gardens and celebrities – what better way to spend your Saturdays?

Saturday Morning with Jack Tame

Ruud Kleinpaste: It's time to start gardening again

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/7784f840-c291-422a-924b-ad9000bbad71/clips/988a7c59-921f-4f0c-af72-b33400077089/transcript