Gone are the days of the simple sunscreen where the choices were between, say, SPF 15, or 30 or 50. Now, at least according to the marketing, you protect your skin from the sun, and also moisturise it, hydrate it, illuminate it and anti-age-it.
The Australian Tax Office now has all these fancy sunscreens in its sights, looking at whether the companies that are pumping out these products need to pay more tax.
Today, consumer affairs reporter Madeleine Heffernan on what happened to the humble sunscreen and whether luxury creams protect your skin just as well.
From the newsrooms of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age. This is the morning edition. I'm Julia Katzel, filling in for Samantha Selinger. Morris. It's Thursday, February 13th. Gone are the days of the simple sunscreen, where the choices were between, say, SPF 15 or 30 or 50. Now, at least according to the marketing, you protect your skin from the sun and also moisturize it, hydrate it, illuminate it, and anti-age it. The Australian Tax Office now has all these fancy sunscreens in its sights, looking at whether the companies that are pumping out these products need to pay more tax. Today, consumer affairs reporter Madeleine Heffernan on what happened to the humble sunscreen and whether luxury creams protect your skin just as well. So Madeleine, most of us have fond childhood memories of Aussie summers at the beach or playing backyard cricket. A time when tanning was cool and when tanning oils were more popular than SPF 50. So how do you look back on that time? Did you have any shocking skin peeling sunburns, for instance?
Oh, absolutely. Julia. I grew up in the 80s, so it was the period of slip, slop, slap.
Slip slop, slap and out in the sun. Summer.
We still holiday every year by the river. And I would just lie in the sun for hours reading or even falling asleep. I don't know if I wanted to get sunburn, but I kind of didn't care. And I know a lot of my friends as we were teenagers, you know, would. They would slap on oil to get a tan. It's kind of crazy looking back, but I think, you know, I had naturally olive skin, so I wasn't worried. Even though Australia is the skin cancer capital of the world.
If you're in a sunny summer dances like a silly sausage. Slip on a shirt. Slop on sunscreen.
And now I'm paying the price for that. I need to have a lot of skin checks. I have wrinkles, and I'm now very vigilant with my own family about covering up.
But gone are the days of a simple SPF 30 sunscreen. They're now combined with a moisturizer they claim to be hydrating. Anti-Aging. Illuminating. So what has happened to sunscreen?
They have become very fancy, haven't they? I think it's been a great opportunity for skincare companies. They can charge more for sunscreen with extras than plain old sunscreen, and obviously they're tapping into this awareness that we all have as as Australians about skin cancer and premature aging. But on the other level, I think people think that they're getting some protection and beauty rolled into one. But that's not necessarily the case, as Cancer Council cancel, uh, says, um.
And just going back to basics, what is the difference between SPF 30 and 50?
Oh good question. So SPF sun protection factor of a sunscreen is a measure of how well it protects the skin from sunburn. So we have SPF 30, which many of us probably grew up with. That admits 1/30 of the ambient UV radiation. And then you have SPF 50 and 50 plus, which is, you know, best practice nowadays, and that's 1/50 and so on. One thing that we all need to think about is how much we put on. We probably need to put on more than we do. The other aspect of that is it's not just about sunscreen, it's also about shade and sunglasses and being sensible, not being out in the sun all day long.
And these new sunscreens, these luxury sunscreens you've described, they've been causing some problems at the moment with questions over how they will be taxed. Also the level of sun protection, but primarily how they'll be taxed. So what is going on at the moment?
That's right. So basically, because there has been this surge in the number of cosmetic sunscreens or sunscreens with extras, there has been some confusion at the tax level about whether they should be GST free or have GST applied to them. So the ATO has looked at all these products and said to the skincare companies, basically, you need to put GST on products that are not primarily marketed as sunblock. So some block there are four elements. It's applied to the skin. It has an SPF of 15 or more. It's included on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods, and it's primarily marketed as sunscreen. And it's that last point that is really relevant here. It can't be promoted as skincare or foundation with sunscreen. It has to be promoted really as sunscreen. But I guess the crackdown has left skincare companies worried that a they'll have to lift their prices, and b this will lead to, um, a fewer people using sunscreen, which of course is something that nobody wants.
And the tax office has had to be pretty specific with some of its labeling. So it has particular phrases that the products and the companies must use in order to market themselves as sunscreen. So can you walk us through some of those?
So products that are labeled sunscreens, sun protection, broad spectrum protection, UVA and UVB protection, water and sweat resistant and reef friendly. They are all okay, but other ones that are sort of more promoted as skincare or foundation or insect repellent with sunscreen, they are not okay. So if you have products that have terms like full or medium coverage or reverse the signs of aging, or correct the appearance of blemished skin, they are not. Probably in the ato's I primarily marketed as sunscreen and therefore they should attract the GST. And there are a couple of other red flags for the ATO as well. They don't like 2 in 1, 3 in 1 BB, BB, BB cream or CC cream. They all suggest to the ATO that the product is not marketed principally as sunscreen, and therefore should be subject with GST.
So my current moisturizer, which quote hydrates and helps prevent premature skin aging, but also claims to have SPF 30 broad spectrum protection wouldn't count as sunscreen because it's primarily a moisturizer.
But by the sounds of it, no. The Atfe says where the marketing of a product includes more than one use, the use of the product as a sunscreen must be the main use. So basically, a moisturizing sunscreen is different to a moisturizer with SPF. So it's complicated, but they say it's a matter of overall impression. So they take into account the name of the product, how it's packaged, promoted, advertised, and placed in a shop. So, you know, you might have a sunscreen section in a supermarket. That's probably a good sign that it is a sunscreen. If it's if it's with all the moisturizers. You know, this is all part of the mix that the ATO will apply to see whether it should in fact have the GST put on top of it.
We'll be right back. And you mentioned that you spoke to some skincare companies who are quite concerned by all of this. What have they said to you about the potential tax increases?
Well, that's right, I spoke to one of the co-founders of a hemp skincare business called Hey Bud, and they make the argument that sunscreen products should be GST regardless of how they are marketed. They only have one SPF product. It's a 50 plus, I think, and it's two hours water resistance. So it's very high quality. And they say we will have to put our price of that up 10%. They did say that they look, some companies are looking to avoid the GST by combining makeup with sunscreen. But their argument is our product is superior to a regular sunscreen. So why on earth should customers be required to pay more for it, which, you know, I think has some merit. And I thought it was interesting. Also, I contacted all the big retailers of, uh, skincare and beauty Mecca Adore Myer, David Jones, Priceline, and none of them wanted to talk about it. This is a really big market for them, these luxury sunscreens. And I think they'll be watching this with a lot of interest because we can all buy really cheap 50 plus sunscreen in bulk. You know, you can get $12 a litre from Woolworths and Coles. But many of us are really happy to pay many multiples of that for fancy sunscreen, so it'll be interesting to see whether some of us do think twice about our purchases from now on.
Yeah. That's right. I mean, I'm sure there are many of us who are willing to pay for that all in one product or a product with less of that white cast that usually comes with sunscreen. But others may be turned off by these increasingly higher prices, and calls into question whether we should actually be making it as easy as possible for people to incorporate SPF into SBF into their daily lives. I saw recently, for instance, a concerning TikTok tanning trend where young people were intentionally sun burning tan lines into their chests, promoting the UV index as a tool rather than a warning.
That is horrifying.
I had like a tan line before, but now it's like so obvious. And I have like the perfect little like face burn. Love it.
So trying to work on my tan lines like these triangle bikini lines, I think they're so cute. And I mean, I'd rather die than live ugly. So if this is going to take ten years off my life, I don't care. I don't want to be old anyway. The most dramatic tan lines in the world. I think it's adorable. Some people don't like it, but I do.
I guess one thing I found really interesting and I hadn't thought enough about, was the fact that the Cancer Council really says it's SPF 50 or 50 plus. That's what you need to use. So when you use cosmetic products, you know, whether it's 15 plus or plus or 30 plus. That is not enough in their view. So what they say is the best sunscreen is broad spectrum water resistant SPF 50 or 50 plus used every day and reapplied. And the National Skin Cancer Committee chair, Professor Anne Kass, said it's important to know that most cosmetic products, such as makeup or skincare products with SPF, offer either no protection or protection that is much lower than the recommended SPF 50 or higher. So on their own, they're not actually best practice.
Okay, so maybe there is something to be said about the old fashioned SPF 50 with no hydrating anti-aging illumination then. So is that something you recommend we do for the rest of the summer? And perhaps some routine skin checks as well?
Well, look, I think by all means wear the luxury sunscreens with the tint or the serum, but the Cancer Council says we're 50 or 50 plus under your makeup. And I interviewed a woman for this story, Claire Hamilton, who spent her summers camping as a kid, and she has been incredibly unconscious as an adult because of her memories of being really sunburnt. She's got very pale skin and now she's lucky to be alive. She spotted a melanoma quite early and she survived that, but she is very vigilant. Nowadays she wears 50 plus sunscreen, hats, sunnies. She finds shade, and she's also very gung ho about her own family being sun smart. And another thing she said was she had the Sunsmart app, which alerts her to when the UV is too high. And I actually installed that this week and it tells me to wear sun protection from 930 to 530, which is much longer than I would normally worry about sunburn at all. So it's really great for days when it's not sunny and you know, sunburn is not front of mind. Um, but there's still a risk of sun damage because many people mistakenly believe that they only need some protection on hot, sunny days. But that's not the case at all.
Well, I am rethinking my moisturizer with SPF 30 now, so thanks for that, Madeleine. And I'll. I'll maybe pick up an SPF 50 this afternoon. Thank you so much for your time today, Madeleine.
Thank you very much for having me.
Today's episode of The Morning Edition was produced by me, Julia Katzel. Our executive producer is Tami Mills. Tom McKendrick is our head of audio. The Morning Edition is a production of The Age and The Sydney Morning Herald. If you enjoy the show and want more of our journalism. Subscribe to our newspapers today. It's the best way to support what we do. Search The Age or smh.com.au. Subscribe and sign up for our Morning Edition newsletter to receive a comprehensive summary of the day's most important news, analysis and insights in your inbox every day. Links are in the show. Notes. I'm Julia Katzel. This is the morning edition. Thanks for listening.