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On this episode of Our American Stories, when Roger McGrath first paddled out at Malibu as a boy in the 1950s, surfing was still a small fraternity with only a few decades of history in California. The boards were heavy, the crowds were thin, and many of the men riding those waves were quietly reinventing the sport. Roger grew up among them, and decades later, he shares the story of the surfers who built the culture he fell in love with.

It begins with George Freeth, who brought stand-up surfing to California, and Tom Blake, who made the massive wooden surfboard lighter and added the fin. After World War II, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, and the eccentric Bob Simmons pushed the board even further, experimenting with new shapes and materials until surfers could turn faster, ride harder, and do things on a wave that had once been impossible.

Support the show (https://www.ouramericanstories.com/donate)

On this episode of Our American Stories, when Roger McGrath first paddled out at Malibu as a boy in the 1950s, surfing was still a small fraternity with only a few decades of history in California. The boards were heavy, the crowds were thin, and many of the men riding those waves were quietly reinventing the sport. Roger grew up among them, and decades later, he shares the story of the surfers who built the culture he fell in love with. It begins with George Freeth, who brought stand-up surfing to California, and Tom Blake, who made the massive wooden surfboard lighter and added the fin. After World War II, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, and the eccentric Bob Simmons pushed the board even further, experimenting with new shapes and materials until surfers could turn faster, ride harder, and do things on a wave that had once been impossible.
Support the show (<a href="https://www.ouramericanstories.com/donate)">https://www.ouramericanstories.com/donate)</a>

Our American Stories tells stories that aren’t being told. Positive stories about generosity and courage, resilience and redemption, faith and love. Stories about the past and present. And stories about ordinary Americans who do extraordinary things each and every day. Stories from our listeners about their lives. And their history. In that pursuit, we hope we’ll be a place where listeners can refresh their spirit, and be inspired by our stories.

Our American Stories

Our American Stories tells stories that aren’t being told. Positive stories about generosity and courage, resilience and redemption, faith and love. Stories about the past and present. And stories about ordinary Americans who do extraordinary things each and every day. Stories from our listeners about their lives. And their history. In that pursuit, we hope we’ll be a place where listeners can refresh their spirit and be inspired by our stories.

Our American Stories tells stories that aren&rsquo;t being told. Positive stories about generosity and courage, resilience and redemption, faith and love. Stories about the past and present. And stories about ordinary Americans who do extraordinary things each and every day. Stories from our listeners about their lives. And their history. In that pursuit, we hope we&rsquo;ll be a place where listeners can refresh their spirit and be inspired by our stories.

The Mad Scientists of Malibu: Surfing’s Early Pioneers

https://api.omny.fm/orgs/e73c998e-6e60-432f-8610-ae210140c5b1/clips/44b11000-b25c-46cb-85ad-b4cf012d31e6/transcript