We’re heading to Madrid to wander through one of the Spanish capital’s most delectable open secrets. Hidden in the plain sight of the city centre, the Mostenses Municipal Market has been overlooked by local authorities for years. But this has created a ripe opportunity for diaspora communities from Asia and Latin America to eagerly snap up once-ailing stalls. Mixing entrepreneurial flair with a melting pot of exotic ingredients, the market is now a sizzling array of mini-eateries featuring flavours from Peru, Ecuador and China. Our man in Madrid, Liam Aldous, introduces us to the gastronomic fusion known as “Chifa”, a heady mix that has turned the surrounding area into Europe’s first, albeit unofficial, “Chifa Town”.