Greece’s second city - Thessaloniki - is often dubbed the country’s gastronomic heartland. A crossroad of different cultures for centuries, the food in this city has a history so rich that UNESCO designated it Greece’s first city of gastronomy in November 2021. Part of that story is Agora Modiano: the recently refurbished food hall that pays homage to the past while bringing a breath of fresh air to the city’s downtown area. Monocle’s Paige Reynolds went down on a bustling Monday morning to meet the people and the stall owners behind the site’s impressive regeneration.