We all know the name Layne Beachley. She has legend status.

I’ve known Layne since she was 5. We grew up in the same neighbourhood, I was mates with her older brother, and I remember her paddling out in the surf as a little kid. We called her gidget.

We’ve caught up from time to time over the years, but like most people, I’ve watched her journey to greatness from afar.

Most are aware of Layne’s success: her seven world titles, the only surfer male or female to win six of them consecutively - but what happens after you are named the best in the world? And what kind of person has the drive and ambition to face a 50 foot wave?

During this conversation, we get into how her drive to be the best wasn’t just your typical ambition. How in fact, it was where she came from - losing her mother at 5, and finding out she was adopted at 8, that fed a deep hunger to prove to herself, and to everyone else, that she was worthy of love.

Layne talks about how retiring meant losing her sense of identity. And how she has gone through a rebirthing.

This was a really beautiful chat with an old friend.

You can follow Layne on Instagram here, and visit Awake Academy here.

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